Turning jute fiber into fabric starts after harvesting and retting. First, the fibers are cleaned and sorted. Then, they are spun into yarn using spinning machines. This yarn is woven into fabric on large machines called looms. After weaving, the fabric goes through finishing steps to make it look and feel better.
Vaishnavi et al., A Review - Studies on Jute Properties, Characteristics and Application in Textile Industry, October 2022, outlines the general processing steps for jute. These steps are explained in the paragraphs below:
- Growing jute plant
- Harvesting
- Defoliating
- Retting
- Separating and combing
- Spinning
- Weaving
- Finishing treatments
1| GROWING JUTE PLANT
Jute grows well in tropical and subtropical places. These places have warm weather and rainy seasons. Jute likes loamy or sandy soil that drains well. Farmers plant it when the rainy season starts and harvest it by cutting it low to the ground. Soil quality is connected to the quality and quantity of crops produced.
2| HARVESTING
The jute plant typically takes nearly 3 months to reach a height of 12-15 feet before it is ready for harvesting. The quality of the raw jute from this stage is crucial, as it is determined by proper cultivation practices. Farmers cut the plants close to the ground so they can get as much of the strong fiber as possible. After harvesting, the next step is defoliating.
3| DEFOLIATING
Following harvesting, defoliating is the next step in the process. In jute cultivation, defoliation refers to the process of removing the leaves from the jute stalks. The jute stalks are usually tied into bundles and left in the field for a few days (typically 2-3 or 3-5 days). During this period, the leaves naturally start to detach from the stalks. Farmers then manually remove the remaining leaves, often by jerking the stalks.
Defoliation is done to ensure that the fibers do not get discolored by the leaves as this significantly reduces the fiber quality. Removing the leaves first also helps in the retting process and ultimately in the extraction of high-quality jute fibers.
4| RETTING
Retting is a critical step that must be "controlled" to ensure the production of high-quality fiber. The retting process could be water retting or dew retting. It is a key area where quality can be significantly impacted. Retting addresses the main issue in the jute industry of producing high-quality fiber.
Retting is a process that helps separate the jute fiber from the rest of the plant. Farmers tie the jute stalks into bundles and soak them in water for about 15 to 20 days. This lets natural bacteria break down the sticky stuff holding the fibers together. After retting, the fibers are taken out, washed, and dried in the sun. Once dry, the fibers are packed into bundles and sent off to be turned into jute fabric.
5| SEPARATING AND COMBING
After retting, the process moves to separating and combing the fibers. During these stages, the bast fibers are separated from the woody core or combed to align and clean the fibers.
- First, jute fibers are chosen based on quality and grade to ensure consistency and strength in the final product.
- Piecing up: The selected jute fibers are fed into the machine to begin processing.
- Softening and lubricating: Jute is treated with water and oil to make the fibers flexible and easier to process.
- Conditioning/pilling: The softened jute is allowed to rest, so the moisture spreads evenly throughout the fibers.
- Breaker carding: This is the first stage of carding. Here, the fibers are disentangled and cleaned, turning them into a loose sheet called sliver.
- Finisher carding: Further straightens, cleans, and aligns the fibers. This improves the sliver’s uniformity.
- First drawing: Combines several slivers and draws them into one. This helps to blend and even out the fiber thickness.
- Second drawing: Repeats the drawing process for more uniformity and better fiber alignment.
- Third drawing /finisher drawing: This stage produces a smooth and consistent sliver ready for spinning.
6| SPINNING
Spinning is the process where the prepared jute fibers are converted into yarn. This yarn is then used for various applications, including fabric and packaging.
In this stage, jute threads can be twisted. Twisting refers to the process of combining multiple strands of yarn together to create a stronger, more cohesive thread. Thereafter, spool winding occurs. This is the process of wrapping yarn onto a spool or bobbin for storage and further processing.
7| WEAVING
Next comes weaving. In this step, the yarns are woven together on looms to make fabric. There are different ways to weave, like plain, twill, or satin, and each gives the fabric a different look and feel. Skilled workers are needed to make sure everything is done properly.
8| FINISHING TREATMENTS
After jute is woven into fabric, it goes through finishing treatments to improve its look and use. One common step is bleaching, which lightens the fabric so it’s easier to dye or print on. Dyeing adds color and designs to the fabric. For manufacturers that only work with organic materials, they might skip the bleaching part. Or they might use other natural substances to clean the jute fabric.
Other treatments help the fabric perform better. Some treatments make jute water-resistant or fire-resistant. Others make it smoother or stiffer. These steps help turn simple jute fabric into fabric that is ready to use in fashion, furniture, and more.
Vaishnavi et al. state that finishing is the final stage that involves various treatments to enhance the properties of the jute fibers or fabrics. These treatments include:
A. Changing Jute with Chemicals
Scientists like Vaishnavi and others found that using chemicals on jute fibers and fabrics can help them last longer without making them stiff. This process helps jute not soak up as much water. When they treated the fibers (not just the finished fabric), the results were even better. The good news is that these changes don’t make the jute dangerous or harmful.
B. Making Jute Better for Composites
When jute is used in composite materials (like mixing jute with plastic), it needs special surface changes. This helps jute soak up less water and stick better to the other materials it's mixed with. These changes also make the jute stronger when combined with other materials. This is important for making tough and useful materials.
CONCLUSION
Turning jute plants into fabric takes many steps. First, the jute plant is grown in warm, rainy places. Jute doesn’t need much water, fertilizer, or pesticides, so it’s better for the planet when compared with other fibers. After it grows tall, farmers harvest the stalks. It takes about 3 months for the jute plant to be ready for harvest.
After harvesting, the leaves are removed in a step called defoliating. Next, the stalks are soaked in water during retting to help loosen the fibers. Once retted, the fibers are separated and combed to make them smooth and clean.
After that, the fibers are spun into long threads. These threads are then woven together to make fabric. At the end, the fabric goes through finishing treatments to make it stronger, softer, or ready for different uses. All these steps work together to turn a simple plant into useful jute fabric we can use for different products such as bags, rugs, furnishing, and more.